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See also: beack checks and buoy data formats.
Your surf information will arrive in an abbreviated format, as we have
to fit a lot of information into the 160 characters of a text message.
Please make sure you read and understand the explanations below.
Surf Forecasts
Surf forecasts contain information on wave height, swell direction, wave
period, wind strength and wind direction for each day. The forecast
gives you all the information you need to work out where best to surf
along a particular stretch of coastline on that day. The wave height is
valid only for the most exposed breaks along that coastline, as
explained below. The combination of wave height, swell direction, wave
period, wind strength and wind direction will determine the breaks with
the best surfing conditions on any one day. You must use your local
knowledge, as a surfer, to work out which break(s) to check out.
Wave Height
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The wave height relates to the height of the surf at the most exposed
breaks along a coastline. The most exposed breaks will be the ones that
directly face the direction of the incoming swell. For breaks facing
away from the swell direction, the waves will be smaller than the height
predicted in the forecast.
ItsGoingOff use the surfing wave height scale illustrated here. This
scale is often called 'back of the wave' and relates most closely to the
scale used by experienced surfers around the world.
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Swell Direction
The swell direction is very important factor in many parts of the
country. If the swell is coming from the North, then northerly facing
beaches will be most exposed, having the wave height stated in the
forecast. On the same day, southerly facing beaches may be flat or may
have a very small wave. Headlands can also block out swell from a
particular direction. If it's bigger waves you want, then use your map
to work out which beaches are directly facing the incoming swell. Or if
the wave height is 8ft and you're a beginner, then you'd be best looking
for a beach that faces at an angle to the incoming swell direction, or a
break that is sheltered by a headland.
Wave Period
The wave period is an indicator of how far the swell has travelled (or
how lined up the swell will be). A wave period of 4-8 seconds indicates
locally generated wind sea. The surf will be messy, or choppy, and waves
will be breaking in different places each time.
A long period swell (12-20 seconds) indicates a swell that has travelled
many miles to reach your break. These are the best types of waves for
surfing. The swell travels towards the beach in long lines. The waves
increase in height as they shoal, before breaking (and hopefully
peeling) along the length of the wave. Long period swell is more likely
to produce barrelling waves, though that will also depend on the slope
of the seabed. The waves are also more likely to break in the same place
each time.
In addition, larger waves will have a longer period. So a 2ft swell of
10s period will be lined up, but a 6ft swell of 10s period will be
choppy.
Wind Strength and Direction
Wind strength is measured in Force numbers by the Beaufort Scale
illustrated here.
The Beaufort Scale |
| Force |
Speed (m/s) |
Description |
| 0 |
0 - 0.2 |
Calm |
| 1 |
0.3 - 1.5 |
Light air |
| 2 |
1.6 - 3.3 |
Light breeze |
| 3 |
3.4 - 5.4 |
Gentle breeze |
| 4 |
5.5 - 7.9 |
Moderate breeze |
| 5 |
8.0 - 10.7 |
Fresh breeze |
| 6 |
10.8 - 13.8 |
Strong breeze |
| 7 |
13.9 - 17.1 |
Near gale |
| 8 |
17.2 - 20.7 |
Near gale |
| 9 |
20.8 - 24.4 |
Strong gale |
| 10 |
24.5 - 28.4 |
Storm |
| 11 |
28.5 - 32.6 |
Violent storm |
| 12 |
over 32.6 |
Hurricane |
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Surfers normally require the wind to be offshore (blowing from the
land to the sea) so that the wave faces are 'clean'. If the wind is
blowing strongly onshore (from the sea to the land) then the waves will
be 'blown out' and unsurfable. So when you're deciding which break to
drive to, choose one that is offshore.
Sometimes the presence of headlands or cliffs will cause the wind
to blow from a different direction locally. Use your local knowledge to
choose a break that will be sheltered from the wind or offshore.
What this will look like on your phone
An example forecast for Fistral, as it will appear on your mobile.
The standard text message can only be 160 characters long on most
mobiles, so to fit in all five days of information, we have had to use
abbreviations. All ItsGoingOff forecasts are given in the format:
4CAST NAME date Day1: wave height, swell direction, wave period; wind
strength, wind direction Day2: wave height, etc. for days1 to 5.
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